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    Default ANIMAL CARE, Bird Care, Cat Care, Dog Care, Fish Care, Horse Care, Rabbits & wildlife

    Caring for your Bird



    Before you purchase a bird please ensure that you have thought carefully about the responsibility of pet ownership. Speak to your local veterinarian and other pet owners, and gather as much information as you

    can to aid you in your decision. Never buy a bird on impulse - owning a pet is a commitment, which should

    be carefully considered.

    Responsibilities of Bird Purchase



    Buying a bird really means that you are prepared to take on a serious commitment for five to ten years depending on the type of bird you choose. The following checklist needs to be considered:



     Children purchasing pets



    Owning a pet provides a child with companionship and teaches the child responsibility and care for dependent creatures. Parents, however, must at all times guide children in their choice of a pet and the husbandry of the animal, and be prepared to supervise the day-to-day care so that the animal is not neglected through ignorance or loss of interest.



     Which Bird?



    A canary or budgerigar is a particularly good pet for a family with very limited space or modest means. They are suitable for people living alone, especially flat dwellers. The care of these caged birds could hardly be more simple or undemanding, but the individuality they show depends on the degree of freedom they are allowed and on the stimulation provided by their surroundings and their companions.



     Male or female?



    It is the male canary, which whistles, and the male budgerigar, which is easier to teach to talk.

    Buying your Bird



    Buy your pet from a reputable source. Beware of purchasing it from markets, pet shops, or places where large numbers of pets are kept, unless you are satisfied with the condition of the facilities.



    Never purchase a pet that looks or is unwell, or is for sale with other animals that look unwell. It is far better to avoid a problem by taking due care and precaution in selection.



    Responsibilities of Bird Ownership



    Read all you can about the particular type of pet you have chosen. Books about birds are obtainable from pet shops, newsagents or your local library. Talk to friends who have the same type of bird you wish to purchase. Check with your local veterinary surgeon about the specific medical problems the bird of your choice could contract. At the same time check how these diseases are recognisable and what preventative measures are required to avoid them.



    Birds require specialized shelter from the elements, protection from natural enemies such as cats, dogs and wild birds, a correct and balanced daily diet, and the opportunity to take adequate exercise.



    Owners must ensure that pets receive proper veterinary care when they are ill, and must watch their pets to detect signs of illness.



     The Law



    The Victorian Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act covers all animals and birds and proclaims the following offences pet owners should know about:  abandoning an animal, failing to provide drink, food or shelter for an animal.

     ill-treating, injuring, tormenting or torturing an animal.

     killing an animal in a cruel manner unlawfully or maliciously.

    The Code of Practice for the Housing of Caged Birds provides minimum cage requirements and can be obtained from the RSPCA.



    If you suspect cruelty to an animal inform the RSPCA or Victorian Police immediately.







    Care For your cage Bird



     Housing



    A well-designed and built aviary is the most satisfactory housing for birds, enabling them to live with freedom of movement and some flight as though still in the wild state.



    Cir***stances dictate that most birds kept as pets live in cages, usually manufactured of metal with wire mesh screening. The minimum size of cage to house one bird will depend on the breed of bird. Queries regarding cage sizes should be referred to the RSPCA.



    The cage should be positioned in a well lit, sunny area where the birds will have frequent human contact, and in which it will be safe to be released to exercise. A portable cage stand permits the birds to be repositioned for their comfort. Appropriate perches of varying size must be provided as well as well-secured food and water troughs. The food and water receptacles should not be positioned beneath bird perches and any accidental contamination of the food and water by bird droppings must be removed immediately it is noticed.



    Frequently, ladders, bells, ropes, swings, mirrors, and suitable toys are provided, but if the cage is over-furnished with them the bird may permanently injure itself by becoming entangled. At night the cage should be covered over to permit the bird to rest and to protect it from draughts.



    Should the cage be placed outside the house on a given day, care must be taken to protect the bird from predators - cats and wild birds. Birds should not be left in the sun without shade.



    A tray on the floor of the cage will collect excreta and should be removed each day and thoroughly cleaned. The cage itself should be easy to scrub out, while water and food troughs and perches should be easily removable for cleaning purposes.



     Handling



    It is important to train your bird to be handled, especially to permit examination for signs of ill-health. Begin by letting them become accustomed to being handled in the cage. Soon they will become finger-tame, and then they may be removed from the cage whilst still perched on the finger. It will require a good deal of patience, and gentleness with finger pressures when actually handling the bird. Caution should be exercised when handling canaries.





     Talking



    Whilst canaries whistle, a lone budgerigar which enjoys close contact with the owner will very often learn to talk. These birds are first taught to talk at about six weeks of age, and if they have not succeeded by six months they probably never will. Talk to the bird directly, using the same word over and over. Once the bird has learnt one word, new words or complete phrases may be achieved.



     Feeding



    The caged bird's basic diet should consist of the specially prepared seed mixtures available in pet shops. This diet should be supplemented with green foods and fruit. Cuttlefish bone should be available in every cage to provide many trace minerals required by birds. Fresh water is essential to a bird’s life and must be replenished frequently in hot weather or if it becomes fouled.

    Health and Veterinary Care for Canaries & Budgerigars



     Signs of Health:

     Demeanour: Quiet and approachable. Alert, observant, with periods of activity.

     Appetite: Good.

     Breathing: Quiet and rapid, with beak closed.

     Feathers: Luxuriant, well preened, and held close to body. A good sheen

     Beak: Not overgrown. No encrustations and able to pick up food easily

     Eyes: Bright and watchful.

     If your bird appears unwell for any reason, consult your veterinarian.



     Ailments



    A sick bird will droop on its perch, or sit on the bottom of the cage, be silent, with feathers fluffed out and sleep for most of the time, often with its head tucked under the wing. The bird's breathing may be laboured. Observe the bird for abnormalities in the cage before handling, and where necessary seek veterinary advice.



     Overgrown beak and claws



    If the bird does not trim its own beak on cuttlefish bone, or its claws because of bad perches, then they will require trimming by a veterinary surgeon.



     Feather plucking



    Mostly, this occurs from boredom. Once established, the habit is difficult to stop. Correct feeding is essential; toys and mirrors help distract the bird from itself.



     Tumours



    Growths on or under the skin are common. Veterinary advice should be sought early.



     Regurgitation



    Regurgitation of food by healthy single budgerigars should not be mistaken for vomiting. It is a courtship ritual and regurgitation will often take place whilst the bird looks at itself in a mirror.



     Respiratory disease



    Colds, bronchitis or pneumonia may quickly respond to warmth. If the condition persists or deteriorates, the bird will require veterinary attention.



     Mites



    Red mites feed on birds at night, causing much irritation to the bird. Signs of mite infection are found on the floor of the cage early in the morning. Dusting the bird with an insecticide and vigorous cleaning of the cage is necessary.



     Scalyface



    A grey encrustation caused by a mite, which gradually spreads around the beak, eyes, feet and legs. Scalyface is contagious. Special insecticidal solutions are necessary to treat this condition and a pest strip hung just outside the cage will help kill the mites.

     General grooming



    Water is required in the cage for bathing and should be provided in a separate, shallow saucer, particularly on warm days.









    Caring for your Cat



    Before you purchase a cat please ensure that you have thought carefully about the responsibility of cat ownership. Never buy a cat on impulse - cats often live to around twelve years of age but many cats much longer. Owning a cat is a commitment, which should be carefully considered. Speak to your local veterinarian and other cat owners, and gather as much information as you can to aid you in your decision.



    Responsibilities of Cat Purchase



    Acquiring a cat really means that you are prepared to take on a commitment for twelve years or more. The following check-list needs to be considered:



     Should I have a Cat?



    Cats are easy household pets to own. The RSPCA encourages the keeping of cats if you have adequate facilities, time, finances and the level of interest necessary to ensure a satisfactory standard or care.





     Short Coat or Long



    Long-coated cats require daily grooming. If neglected, hair knots frequently form and may restrict the movement of the legs and neck and also lead to skin ailments. Cats that are not taught to accept daily grooming become quite resistant to de-knotting and this must then be done under tranquilization by a veterinary surgeon - an expensive proposition.





     Purebred or Crossbred



    Most household cats are crossbred, very often adopted into the family on impulse. They make delightful companions. Many are beautiful; all are graceful; most are affectionate and easy to care for.



    Pedigree cats are usually acquired deliberately, and are often expensive to purchase. The greatest advantage of a pedigree cat is that it has a predictable nature for the particular breed and a recognisable appearance.



     Male or Female



    If cats are desexed there is little to choose between the sexes as household cats: either is likely to make a good pet. The unsterilised tomcat has undesirable social habits, smells, fights with neighbouring cats and spends much time wandering away from home. The female cat is difficult to control when in season and is likely to produce many litters in her lifetime.



     What Variety



    The Oriental short-hair pure breeds include the Siamese, Burmese, Abyssinian and Russian Blue. They are lean and lithe with wedge-shaped heads and pointed ears. The longhaired pure breeds include the familiar Persian and Chinchilla; these cats have shorter legs and are thickset with a fairly heavy coat. The domestic cats (crossbreeds) can be short or longhaired, and include the familiar black, white, ginger, tortoiseshell, and a variety of tabby colourings.







    Care for your Cat



     Housing



    Only very simple arrangements need to be made to house a cat comfortably. The only accommodation a cat really needs in the house is a good bed, which may be any comfortable chair, box or basket.



    The cat uses its claws for climbing and in defence and usually keeps them in immaculate condition. Most cats sharpen their claws on a tree in the garden, but some select furniture in the house and the resultant damage can be severe. It is best to provide a scratching post for the cat, placed near to its usual exit from the house. A cat should have access to the house and its sleeping quarters at all times, day or night. A cat door fitted into an external door of the house is a very useful aid and if properly done, is burglar-proof. The cat should always be contained indoors or outdoors (in an enclosure) at night.



     Litter



    Cats are the most fastidious of animals and are easily house-trained to a litter tray filled with dry earth, sand, or cat litter.



    Litter trays should be placed near to the cat's sleeping arrangements, and should be cleaned regularly.





     Exercise



    All cats need the opportunity to take exercise and the best place is in the garden. Kittens need to learn how to climb and also how to descend from trees.



     Grooming



    Regular combing and brushing of long-haired cats is essential and most owners find that this is a regular requirement.



    Short-haired cats are able to groom themselves except at moulting time when assistance from the owner by brushing may be necessary.



    Hair swallowing by cats can result in the formation of a hair mass in the stomach known as a fur ball and during the moulting season it may be necessary to give a teaspoonful of paraffin oil mixed with food, or a proprietary product once a week to prevent this.



    Cats may be bathed when dirty, but gentleness must be used to prevent them from being frightened. Flea control is best achieved with insecticidal powders or flea collars.



     Feeding



    Diets for cats are very demanding because of their high protein and fat requirements. Cats can easily become food fad animals, which leads to diet deficiency diseases, so they should be taught at an early age to accept a variety of foods. It is suggested that you:

     Choose a complete diet with variety.

     Feed little and often. Don't leave excess food in bowl.

     See that feed bowls are scrupulously clean.

     Don't feed liver only. As it leads to skeletal problems.

     Don't feed raw meat as the sole diet; skeletal problems again can occur

     Don’t feed cats on dog food.

    Most canned cat food is specially prepared with added vitamins and minerals. Feeding dried foods requires access to drinking water at all times, without which the cat may develop a urinary tract problem. Cats should have ready access to a plentiful supply of clean fresh water. Cats should not be fed milk as milk lactose is indigestible to most cats and may lead to diarrhoea.

    Health and Veterinary Care



     Signs of Health:

     Demeanour: Watchful - even at rest; quickly responsive to sounds;

    quiet and contented.

     Movement: Free movement and agile; no lameness.

     Appetite: Good; no vomiting.

     Breathing: Even and quiet

     Coat: Clean well-groomed and glossy; free from parasites and dirt.

     Ears: Pricked to catch sound; no discharge or irritation.

     Eyes: Clear; no discharge or inflammation.

    If your cat appears unwell for any reason, consult your veterinarian.



     Vaccination



    Feline Enteritis is a viral disease, which is usually fatal, and vaccination is essential. Feline Respiratory Disease is a viral disease, which causes typical flu symptoms, but is not usually fatal, however. None of these diseases affect humans. Initial vaccinations are usually given from six to eight weeks of age. Booster vaccinations are required and you should consult your veterinary surgeon for advice on the proper schedule.



     Worming



    Kitten Roundworms are not infective to humans, but nonetheless your cat requires regular worming. Tapeworms can also infect cats. Your veterinary surgeon will advise on a worming schedule.



     Fleas



    Fleas are a common external parasite of cats. They cause severe itching and inflammation of the skin leading to dermatitis. Regular use of insecticidal powders or washes or the use of a flea collar, together with active control of the fleas in the cat's environment will control the problem.



     General Illness



    Cats and kittens can become ill quite rapidly, usually characterised by lethargy and a failure to eat or drink. Seek veterinary advice.



    Desexing



    Female cats are desexed to prevent unwanted pregnancies with the associated problem of finding proper homes for the kittens.



    Tomcats are desexed to prevent fighting and wandering and other undesirable habits such as spraying urine to mark territory.



    RSPCA Australia supports and recommends early age desexing from the age of eight weeks. When the surgery is simple and the recovery is immediate.



    The RSPCA advocates the desexing of all cats not kept for breeding purposes.



    Boarding your Cat



    At holiday time it may be possible to arrange for a friend, neighbour, or relative to visit your house two or three times a day to tend to the cat. Provided such regular attention is guaranteed this is acceptable since cats prefer to remain in their own home. It is not a good idea to move the cat to someone else's home from which it will immediately try to escape.



    The alternative is to place your cat at a good boarding cattery. Cat owners are urged to call and inspect the cattery of their choice well beforehand and check for themselves.



    When choosing an establishment, cat owners are urged to personally call in and check for themselves:



     Staffing. Is there enough staff to ensure more personalised attention for your cat.

     Security: adequate precautions against the possibility of escape.

     Hygiene: evidence of cleanliness and no smell.

     Accommodation: dry, clean and sheltered with heating provided for cooler months.

     Exercise: facilities that allow for some exercise, preferable with some climbing capacity.

     Housing for cats must have an ample supply of and access to fresh air.









    Caring for your Dog



    Owning a dog is considered to be part of the Australian way of life. Dogs provide companionship, loyalty, and love for people of all ages and add pleasure and fun to life. In return dogs depend on their owners to provide them with care and attention every day. It is best for people, particularly families, to make a conscious effort to accept the responsibilities of dog ownership before deciding on the purchase of a dog.

    Responsibilities of Purchasing a Dog



    Buying a dog means taking on a serious responsibility for ten years or more. The following checklist needs to be considered:



     Large Dog or Small



    Large dogs need plenty of space and are generally unsuitable as housedogs. The larger the dog the more it will cost to feed. In addition, large dogs require a great deal of daily exercise and are often difficult to control and handle.



     Purebred or Crossbred



    Pedigree or purebred dogs are the most expensive to buy. However, they have a predictable nature and appearance. Crossbreeds are dogs of mixed ancestry, are robust, and often make wonderful pets. Because it is common for their ancestry to be unknown, it is impossible to predict accurately how these puppies will develop.



     Dog or Bitch



    Male dogs are often quite independent. They are usually more difficult to train and control. Males tend to wander, fight other dogs and worry other animals (especially cats and sheep). Unsterilised dogs may show aggressive behaviour toward humans and other animals, but desexing and training may solve these problems. Bitches are more popular as family pets and may cost a little more. They are by nature affectionate and companionable, but unless they are desexed, they will attract dogs when in season and may reproduce every six months.



     Short Coat or Long



    Long coated dogs require daily grooming. If grooming is neglected, hair knots frequently form, leading to skin ailments. Regular trips to dog salons for washing and clipping the coat are expensive, especially if the dog must be tranquillised first because it resents grooming.

    Choosing a Dog



    Buy your dog from a reputable source. Purchase your dog from a reputable dog breeder or approach an animal welfare society such as the RSPCA where healthy dogs are available for adoption from shelters.



    Beware of purchasing a dog from markets or places where large numbers of dogs are kept for sale by dealers. It is not unusual for animals sold from these establishments to have received no suitable examination from a veterinary surgeon, and accordingly, they may not be healthy or free from physical defects. Never purchase a puppy that looks or is unwell.



    Some Advice



    The common law maxim ‘Caveat Emptor’, "Let the buyer beware", simply means that the new owner must bear responsibility for a faulty animal purchased. Read all you can about the dog you have chosen. Books can be obtained from pet shops or newsagents. Talk to friends who have the same breed of dog.



    Check with your local veterinary surgeon about possible breed-specific medical problems that the dog of your choice could contract. At the same time, check the cost of the various treatments your future dog may need such as vaccination, desexing and worming.







    Responsibilities of Dog Ownership



    All dogs require adequate shelter from the elements, protection from natural or manmade enemies (such as the motor car), a correct and balanced daily diet and appropriate exercise. It is the owner who must bear the responsibility if a dog bites a human, kills wildlife, damages property, causes a traffic accident, creates noise or other pollution, or is the direct cause of some other cost to the community. Owners must ensure that dogs receive proper veterinary care and must watch their dogs to detect signs of illness.



     The Law



    The Victorian Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act proclaims the following offences which dog owners should know about:

     abandoning a dog;

     conveying a dog in cir***stances involving cruelty;

     failure to provide drink, food or shelter for a dog; failure to provide

    veterinary treatment for a dog that is ill or injured;

     failure to provide reasonable daily exercise to a dog which is habitually

    chained or closely confined;

     ill- treating, injuring, tormenting or torturing a dog, killing a dog in a

    cruel, unlawful, or malicious manner.



    If you suspect cruelty to an animal, inform the RSPCA or Victorian Police immediately.



    The dog owner also has responsibilities to control their animal according to the local Government ‘Dog Act’ including registration, ensuring the dog is leashed in public and properly identified and not allowing the dog to worry or attack another animal or person. In addition, many municipalities prohibit more than two dogs being kept in a residence without permission. Be sure to contact your local Council to make sure you know your obligations.

    Care for your Dog



     Housing



    Most dogs are hardy enough to sleep out of doors in a well-built, well-furnished and weatherproof kennel, if dogs live indoors and sleep in a cane basket or wooden bed.



    Puppies should be introduced to the sleeping area provided as soon as they are brought home. Kennels should be warm, dry and draught free, off the ground, near the house and human activity, but not in a thoroughfare. The kennel should be protected from rain and excessive sun. Bedding should be changed regularly. Washable rugs, cushions, blankets, or strips of clean newspaper are suitable as bedding.



     Exercise



    Digging holes in the garden, wrecking plants, pulling washing off the line, are symptoms of massive boredom in dogs. Dogs need an outlet for this energy via exercise. Ideally, dogs would be taken to Council designated areas where they can be safely let off the leash to run free with no risk from motor traffic and no threat to farm livestock or wildlife. All exercise, even that taken off the leash, should be supervised and the dog kept within calling distance.



    All dogs should be kept within a properly dog-proof fenced property. If for larger properties this is not possible, then a properly fenced dog-run should be constructed and the dog kennel should be placed within the run. For short-term use, exercise on a running wire and lead can be provided. The wire should be placed well above the height of the dog and a stopper should be fitted to each end of the wire to prevent the lead attached to the dog becoming wrapped around the supporting posts.



     Grooming



    Combing and brushing dogs regularly is essential, particularly for longhaired breeds. It is best to establish this habit early in a dog’s life so that grooming becomes part of the routine. Grooming removes dust, dead skin, loose hairs, grass seeds and tangles. It also assists to shorten the coat moult, which occurs every autumn and spring.



    A dog which is dirty or smells should be bathed. During summer, a flea control shampoo and a flea rinse should be used. In colder weather, towels or a hair drier can be used to remove excess water and assist in drying the coat.

    Training your Dog.



     Housetraining your puppy (or dog)



    To housetrain your puppy you firstly have to work at preventing any more mistakes from happening and then take the time to teach them where you would prefer them to go to the toilet.



    You can prevent mistakes from happening by diligently supervising your puppy while they are inside and regularly taking them outside to relieve themselves. If you are unable to supervise them, containing your puppy in a ‘dog crate’ or small area inside for short periods of time will assist in your efforts to housetrain your puppy. Alternatively, you may choose to put your puppy outside to avoid accidents whilst they are being housetrained.



    When you put your puppy outside to go to the toilet, go outside with them and reward them with a treat or praise immediately after they have finished going to the toilet in the desired place. Please be aware that there is the potential that reprimanding your puppy may complicate your housetraining efforts, as the puppy may become secretive in its toileting.



    If your puppy does go to the toilet inside, clean the area thoroughly with a non-ammonia based cleaning product, these can be found at your local veterinary clinic or pet shop.



    Some puppies will be slower than others to become reliable indoors, however will most accidents usually occur when the owner forgets to regularly allow the puppy outside to relieve itself.



     General training for your puppy (or dog)



    Puppies respond well to “positive-reinforcement” based training. It is important to acknowledge that they do not instinctively know what behaviours are right or wrong and it will be up to you, to teach them. Take the time to show your puppy what you want them to do and reward them with a treat, praise or a game when they do the right thing.



    If your puppy is behaving inappropriately you should attempt to redirect them to something else and reward them when they begin to engage in a more appropriate behaviour. For example, if your puppy is chewing on the furniture, redirect them to an appropriate chew toy. Alternatively you may find that ignoring the undesirable behaviour and rewarding the correct one, can also be a very effective way to train your puppy.



    Regular socialisation and training, from as early as 8 weeks of age, is an important factor in raising a well-behaved and socially acceptable dog. New puppy owners will benefit from enrolling in a Puppy Pre-School class as soon as they get their puppy.



    Undesirable behaviours, such as barking and digging, may well be avoided if you keep your puppy entertained. Regular play-times, walks, short training sessions, quiet ‘quality time’ and interesting toys can keep your dog busy and out of mischief.



    You should be aware that some problem behaviours do not become apparent until your dog reaches adolescence and/or sexual maturity. Prevention is the key and enrolling your dog in training classes and socialising your dog from an early age will go along way to avoiding problems in the future.



    If you are experiencing difficulties in managing your dog’s behaviour please contact the RSPCA or your local shelter, Veterinary Clinic, Dog Obedience Clubs or registered dog trainer for advice.



    Some municipal councils provide a reduced registration fee for dogs which have successfully completed a registered Obedience Course.



    RSPCA offers Puppy Pre-school & Pet Dog "Manners Classes". Click on classes for more information.

    Feeding



    Dogs require a properly balanced diet for health. Such a diet contains protein to build the body, fats for skin and coat health, carbohydrates for energy and minerals and vitamins for good bone development and healthy tissues. Roughage is essential for bowel function. The most economical and balanced diet easiest to provide for dogs is a mixture of meat, raw, cooked or canned and dry food.



     Meat



    Meat by itself cannot be a complete diet and requires heavy supplementation with vitamins, minerals and other food materials. In rapidly growing dogs a diet of meat only can lead to a major mineral imbalance and skeletal damage.



     Canned Food



    These vary widely in quality, you get what you pay for but a good quality canned food, that combines the goodness of meat with vegetables cereal and the correct levels of vitamins and minerals, provides a diet which is complete and balanced.



     Semi-Moist Foods



    All these products are a complete diet.



     Dry Foods



    Those that are a complete diet have this stated on the packet. This is an excellent and easy way of feeding a dog.



     Bones



    All dogs appreciate a bone, especially a raw bone. A large marrowbone cleans the teeth massages the gums, and is a dog's treasured possession. The RSPCA recommends a regular supply of bones for mouth/dental hygiene.



     Drinking Water



    Fresh water must always be available, particularly when dry foods are used. Containers must be kept clean and placed in the shade. During summer when very hot days are common, water may need replenishing several times a day.



     Milk



    Milk is a useful dietary supplement for dogs of all ages, but can result in diarrhoea and sometimes dermatitis.







    Health and Veterinary Care



     Signs of Health:

     Demeanour: Alert, vital, and quickly responsive to sounds and calls.

     Movement: Good stamina in youth, deteriorating with age; no lameness.

     Appetite: Enthusiastic for food, eating fast, no vomiting.

     Coat: Clean, glossy, and free from parasites and dirt.

     Ears: Alert to slightest sound, no discharge or irritation.

     Eyes: Clear with no discharge or inflammation.

     Nose: Cold and damp when outdoors, dry and warm when indoors; no persistent discharge.

     If your dog appears unwell for any reason, consult your veterinarian.



     Vaccination



    Canine Distemper, Canine Infectious Hepatitis and Canine Parvovirus are three viral diseases of dogs which are potentially fatal. None affect humans. Vaccination against these diseases is mandatory. Temporary vaccinations are given from 6 - 10 weeks of age, but further injections are required. Consult your veterinary surgeon for advice on the proper schedule and whether any other vaccine is advisable.



    In addition a vaccination is available against Kennel Cough, an upper respiratory infection of dogs. This disease is not fatal but vaccination is advisable.



     Worming



    Puppy Roundworms can infect humans. To prevent this infection, puppies should be wormed regularly throughout the first year of life, together with commonsense personal hygiene on the part of the handlers. Tapeworms, Hookworms, and Whipworms can also infect dogs and your veterinary surgeon can advise when to worm the dog.



    Heartworm is a major problem for dogs in most areas of Australia. Preventative treatment is available but must not be commenced without first receiving veterinary advice.



     Fleas



    Fleas are a common external parasite associated with dogs. They cause severe itching and inflammation of the skin, leading to dermatitis. They are the intermediate host for the Tapeworm most common in dogs. Regular use of insecticidal powders or washes or the use of a flea collar together with active control of fleas in the dog's environment will control the problem.



     Poisoning



    Most poisoning of dogs is accidental. Garden poisons, such as snail baits, are the main cause. Dogs known to eat anything will be most likely to eat or drink poisons stored or laid if accessible to them. Dogs found foaming at the mouth, with muscle tremors or staggering gait or unable to stand should receive immediate veterinary treatment.



     General Illness



    Shown by a continued failure to eat and drink, usually accompanied by depression. Seek veterinary advice.

    Desexing



    Bitches are desexed for a number of reasons: to prevent the season cycle which occurs twice a year for 3 weeks attracting many male dogs to prevent unwanted pregnancies with the associated problems of rearing puppies and finding proper homes for them; to prevent breast cancer and uterus problems frequently found in entire undesexed bitches.



    Male dogs are desexed to prevent fighting, wandering, offensive sexual habits and other undesirable social problems.



    In order to ensure pet dogs & cats are desexed, RSPCA Australia supports and recommends early aged desexing from the age of eight weeks. At this age the surgery is simple and recovery is immediate.



    Dogs should be desexed preferably at about 6 months of age and bitches should not be desexed when in season. Your veterinary surgeon will advise.



    The RSPCA advocates the desexing of all dogs not kept for breeding purposes; municipal councils provide a reduced registration fee for desexed animals.



    Boarding your Dog



    It is probable that at some time in a dog's life, it may have to stay in a boarding kennel. The most usual reason is that the family will be away from home on holiday.



    When choosing an establishment, dog owners are urged to personally call at the kennel and check for themselves:

     Staffing: Is there enough staff to ensure more personalised attention for your dog.

     Security: adequate precautions against the possibility of escape.

     Hygiene: evidence of cleanliness and no smell.

     Accommodation: dry, clean and roomy.

     Exercise: facilities for exercise of larger dogs and long-term boarders.

    Dogs must be booster vaccinated prior to boarding at kennels. Most kennels require all vaccinations (see Vaccination) to have been given at least 14 days before admission.









    Caring for your Fish



    (Note: includes non-native fish) Fish are very relaxing and beautiful to look at and many species are kept for these reasons. They are suitable pets for people living in flats or other confined areas, but for people with

    plenty of outdoor space an in-ground fish pond can enhance a garden setting.



    Whether kept in an aquarium or pond, a great deal of care is required in looking after fish properly.

    Choosing your Fish



    The type of fish you keep will depend on the amount of space you have, and the amount of money you wish to spend on their purchase and the equipment associated with their care.



    There are two broad categories of aquarium fish; freshwater and saltwater (marine) - and within each of these categories are coldwater and tropical varieties. Coldwater fish are suitable for coldwater aquariums but

    tropical fish need heated water; outdoor pond fish are normally of the freshwater-coldwater type.



    Choose cheap fish to begin with (because these are generally the easiest to keep) and buy only healthy specimens; be sure to purchase your fish from a reputable dealer (dead fish in the sale tanks indicates poor health). Beginners should start with a small freshwater aquarium and a few coldwater fish. Saltwater tanks are more difficult to manage than freshwater. Choose hardy specimens such as goldfish; there are many varieties of goldfish but only some are available in Australia. Coldwater marine fish such as leather jackets, breams and small flounder are also cheap and easy to keep.



    Tropical freshwater fish suitable for beginners include platties, sword tails, guppies and mollies. Be sure that you know how to keep fish properly before buying tropical fish because they are very sensitive to poor water quality and temperature fluctuations. Tropical marine fish suitable for aquariums include clownfish, wrasses and tropical seahorses. Seahorses can be difficult to feed properly as they often require specialised food.



    Never keep incompatible fish together as some may eat others. Also, be careful with aggressive fish such as Angel fish. They can be very aggressive towards each other, particularly if the space in the tank is limited. For advice talk to the pet shop and also contact your local Aquarium Society. Members are usually very helpful with advise, equipment purchases and sourcing of suitable fish.

    Care for your Fish



     Housing



    A fish tank should be an appropriate size for the number of fish held. If a non- aerated aquarium or outdoor pond is used, allow three centimetres of water surface area for every three square centimetres of fish (including the tail). A tank should be rectangular; fish bowls have a small water surface area and therefore limit the amount of oxygen entering the water. In addition, for each centimetre of fish you will need about five litres of water regardless of whether the tank is aerated or not.



    It is now useful for glass tanks to be glued together with silicone sealant rather than having a frame as in the past. If a frame is used, marine aquariums must be framed with aluminium or stainless steel to prevent damage to the frame by the saltwater. Either way, the glass from which the tank is made must be thick enough to withstand the weight of the water.



    Freshwater should be allowed to stand in a stainless steel or plastic container for 24 hours before use, to allow dissipation of chlorine (common in tap water). Seawater is best made up from bottled water or tap water with the addition of special sea-water mix available from aquarium shops.

     Establishing an Aquarium

     Place the empty aquarium and stand on a flat solid surface in a well-lit position but not in direct sunlight.

    Direct sunlight will heat the tank water too much during the day and it will cool too much at night and as a

    result your fish will suffer stress diseases. Direct sunlight will also cause too much algae to grow and the

    tank will be difficult to keep clean.



     Remember that one litre of water weighs one kilogram and there is the additional weight of the tank,

    stand and other equipment. The floor surface you have chosen must be able to support this total weight.



     First, half fill the aquarium with water (clean tap water is suitable). If a bottom filter is to be used, install it

    at this stage. Then place sand on the bottom with pebbles and stones for decoration and to provide

    hideaways for the fish. Anchor in some water plants which will help oxygenate the water.



     Complete the filling of the tank to within five centimetres of the top. If you have purchased active fish, or

    they are likely to be disturbed, they may jump out of the tank, so cover the aquarium with a glass top that

    is raised sufficiently to let air in.



     A water filter operated by a small electric submersible motor will help to keep the tank clean, but if your

    fish are being fed too much food, thus excreting too much, algae will still overgrow in the tank.



     The same motor can operate an aerator that pumps tiny bubbles of air into the water. These aid in

    circulating the water (which helps with oxygenation, since most oxygen exchange takes place at the

    surface). Bubbles also show that the filter is working properly. Many filters use a combination of charcoal

    filters and fine sponge filters to remove solids. These will need to be regularly cleaned and replaced. You

    can stock the tank with 40% more fish if an aerator is used.



     For tropical fish a heater and thermometer are also needed to keep the water at the right temperature

    (22° C - 24° C for tropical and marine fish and 15° C - 20° C for coldwater fish). The effects of central

    heating and other forms of room heaters should be considered. Water temperature in tanks should be

    checked daily and maintained within a range of 5° C of the optimum temperatures.

    Let the newly filled aquarium stand for about 3-4 days before buying your fish. Fish are usually sold in a plastic bag and this should be floated on the surface of the tank water for about 30 minutes to allow the water and fish in the bag to reach the same temperature as the water in the tank. This way, fish will not get a shock by being moved to water at a different temperature. A sudden temperature shock of even a few degrees can kill the fish. After this time, add tank water very slowly to the bag to allow the fish to acclimatise to the tank water (and thus prevent osmotic shock). Then decant the fish into the tank.



    New aquariums take about 2 - 3 weeks to 'settle down" after the fish have been added. During this time tanks should be tested daily for nitrates and ammonia (using kits which can be purchased cheaply). Nitrates and ammonia are very toxic to fish, however they are converted to more harmless nitrates by the action of "nitrifying bacteria". Once the bacteria reach equilibrium in the tank, they will convert the nitrates and ammonia as it is produced. The plants use the nitrates in the water.



    Change about a quarter of the water every week whether it is dirty or not. Be very careful to ensure that the replacement water is at the same temperature as the tank (to within two degrees) If the tank is particularly dirty replace about 1/3 of the water at once, clean the filter and then remove and replace a quarter of the water each day until it is clear again. Carefully monitor the nitrate and ammonia levels.



    Never overfeed the fish. Add just enough food for the fish to eat over a five minute period. Carefully siphon off any uneaten food from the tank floor.







     Establishing an Outdoor Pond



    Fish ponds are best if in-ground and made of cast concrete, although some prefabricated cement constructions and some butyl rubber liners are suitable. Where plastics are used, ensure that the supplier warrants them suitable for use with live fish as many plastics are toxic. The minimum depth of available water must be 30 cm., but it is wise to have even deeper sections so that fish can reach cooler water areas. As with aquarium fish, the number placed in a pond will depend on the surface area of the water and whether or not the water is filtered and circulated.



    Adequate aquatic plants must be placed in the pond to help remove nitrates and phosphates (which cause algal growth) and to provide shelter for the fish and a place for eggs to be laid. Algae and plants generate oxygen during the day, but absorb oxygen at night. On still warm summer nights they can easily remove all of the oxygen and kill the fish. To avoid this, ensure that pond pumps run at night when there is no wind to ruffle the water. Rocks must also be strategically placed to provide both good shelter and for decorative purposes.



    Ponds are best sited out of direct sunlight in order to control algae growth. Watch for predator birds if setting a pond near large trees. A water filter system is essential to remove algae and other impurities and the system should be designed so that one-quarter of the water is replaced each week this is easily achieved by establishing a deliberate leak in the water filtration system of appropriate volume. Newly poured concrete ponds, and new butyl rubber liners should be filled with water and allowed to stand for four weeks. After draining and cleaning it is safe to refill and stock with fish.



     Feeding



    If your fish are kept at a constant temperature in the aquarium you should feed them every day. Allow just enough food for the fish to feed for about five minutes. Supply a variety of dried food (flakes), frozen food (brine, shrimp, daphnia) fresh food (earthworms, tubiflex) and green food (algae and water moss) all of which is available from aquarium shops. Do not overfeed fish as the uneaten decomposed food will make the water smelly or clouded and the fish will die.



    Pond fish require feeding every two days in summer and once weekly in winter. Buy suitable pellets from a pet supplier. Trout pellets are generally too rich in protein for fish such as carp and goldfish, and can cause pollution problems in the pond.



     Health



    The principal causes of death of fish in an aquarium or pond are overstocking and polluted water. As fish must live permanently in the area where they eat and excrete, the tank must be cleaned regularly to remove this material which will foul the water. Learn to recognise normal fish behaviour, and know what to do if the fish begin to behave in an unusual way. For example, fish gasping on the surface is a sure indication of a fouled tank or pond with little oxygen left. Other signs of infections and diseases are change of colour, swollen skin or eyes, a swollen belly, a rotting tail or white spots over the body of the fish. Check with your veterinarian for advice.



    Remedies for some common problems such as white spot, fin rot and fungus are sold from aquarium shops. Prevention is obviously better than cure, but where a fish becomes sick it is best to remove it to a small treatment tank so that the other fish do not become infected. Seek advice about treatment from the local Aquarium Society or veterinarian.



    Remember that tobacco, dog flea treatments and garden and household sprays such as insecticide can pollute the aquarium or pond and kill the fish. Read the labels carefully, seek advice and cover the tank before spraying.









    Caring for your Horse



    The horse is a marvelous athlete and can make a delightful companion. Most Australians have a strong affection for all horses, and many people, especially young people, would like to own and ride their own horse. People should be prepared to accept the many responsibilities of horse ownership before deciding upon the purchase of a horse.

    Responsibilities of Horse Purchase



    Owning a horse is a huge responsibility. It means hard work and dirty chores for a long time, along with considerable expense. It is important to understand that the initial purchase of a horse is only the first step in your new experience with horses. You will have to consider whether the horse will be kept in a paddock, or whether it must be stabled. You need to discuss feeding costs with a reputable feed merchant. Paddock

    horses may need some supplementary feed when grass becomes eaten down, and stable horses will be

    fed continuously on procured feed.



    Basic necessities for your horse include a bridle, saddle, and saddle blanket, grooming brush, feed tin and water container. It is wise to enquire about these costs first as they can be very expensive items and time

    and care is needed in their selection. It’s a good idea to have a safe storage area for your equipment when

    it is not being used on the horse. Your own riding outfit has to be purchased as well, and this should include

    a suitable hard hat and good quality riding boots.



    There will also be costs for shoeing, veterinary attention for your horse's teeth, worm control, coughs and colds, and for vaccinations against diseases such as strangles and tetanus.



    Most young people purchasing their first horse are strongly advised to join the local Pony Club where they will receive expert tuition on riding and advice on horse care.

    Choosing a Horse



    Buy your horse from a reputable source. Beware of purchasing a horse from anyone who cannot provide a satisfactory history of the animal. Make sure the seller knows what you wish to use the horse for. It is important that you and your horse are well-matched so great care should be employed in its selection.



    Find out all about it: age, background, vices (e.g. buck, kick, bite, and bolt). Make sure your first horse has a quiet temperament. Examine the horse and have an experienced friend ride it for you and ride it yourself. If it feels right ask for a one week trial, then ride and handle the horse daily. Have your own veterinary surgeon cheek the horse for fitness and suitability prior to purchase.



    Some Advice



    It is far better to avoid a problem by taking every care and precaution in your selection. Read all you can about the requirements and problems associated with owning a horse. Talk to friends who have owned horses for some time.



    Check with your local veterinary surgeon about common disease problems of horses. Check the cost of professional visits, especially for vaccinations, worming, dental care, and general medical treatment. Veterinary care can often be costly.



    Responsibilities of Horse Ownership



    All horses have certain basic needs irrespective of the husbandry system under which they are kept:

     Ready access to food and fresh water to maintain health and vigour.

     Freedom of movement to stand, stretch and lie down.

     Regular exercise.

     Social contact with other horses and people.

     Accommodation that neither harms nor causes undue strain, and provides adequate protection.

     Protection from disease and regular inspection to assess the need for attention to feet, teeth and worm

    control.

     Rapid identification and treatment of lice, injury and disease.

    All horse owners should be fully aware of the general and specific husbandry requirements of the horse. Many municipalities restrict the riding of horses in certain areas, prohibit taking horses to specific places (e.g. a beach or public park) and have regulations for keeping horses in their areas.



    You will need to check with the local Council in your area.







    Care for your Horse



     Housing



    The paddock should be a minimum of 1 acre, should have some natural shelter, good grass cover and adequate drainage. The paddock should be:

     properly fenced (not barbed wire) and free from all rubbish and debris, especially

    old wire and iron.

     close enough to home to permit daily visits .

     kept free of droppings to discourage flies and aid worm control.

     suitable for catching and working the horse.

     Shelter



    Horses need shelter from heat, wind and rain. Natural shelter such as a belt of trees or a hedge is good. A shed or stable may either supplement or substitute natural shelter. Old horses need special care and in winter should have a warm waterproof rug in addition to other protection from the elements.



     Water



    Horses drink a lot of water so they must have access to a constant supply of fresh, clean water available from a ground level container. Horses may drink 25-45 litres of water per day in hot weather.



     Tethering



    All horses require regular exercise and freedom to move. They should never be tethered. If, for emergency or health reasons, horses have to be tethered, it should be done in accordance with the "Code of Practice for the Tethering of Animals" available from the RSPCA.



     Feeding



    Good quality grass is the best and most natural feed but when it dries up, hay and hard feed must be provided. Failure to do so will result in malnutrition and rapid loss of condition. Some feeding hints:



    Feed little and often (2 or 3 times daily).

    Feed plenty of bulk, such as good quality hay so that, as in grazing, the digestive organs are well filled.









    Caring for your Rabbit, Guinea Pig,

    Mouse & Rat




    Many children have a guinea pig, a rabbit, or a mouse as a first pet. These pets make excellent companions

    but they are quite dependent, on their owners to provide them with care and attention everyday.



    It is best for people, especially the parents of pet-keeping children, to make a conscious effort to accept all the responsibilities of pet ownership before finally deciding to purchase one.

    Responsibilities of Rabbit, Guinea Pig, Mouse & Rat Purchase



    Buying a pet rabbit, guinea pig or mouse really means that you are prepared to take on a serious daily commitment for five to ten years depending on the type of pet you choose.



     Children purchasing pets



    Owning a pet provides a child with companionship and teaches the child responsibility and care for dependent creatures. Parents, however, must at all times guide children in their choice of a pet and the husbandry of the animal, and be prepared to supervise the day-to-day care so that the animal is not neglected through ignorance or loss of interest.



     Guinea Pigs (Cavies)



    One of the most popular pet rodents, these are generally hardy animals, and given the right facilities are easy to care for. Guinea Pigs are docile with people and soon become tame and tractable. Their size and shape allow them to be easily handled by children. Because they are social animals, it is necessary that more than one pet guinea pig be kept for companionship.



     Rabbits



    Tame rabbits were originally bred from the wild. They make attractive, appealing pets and are relatively hardy animals. Children easily handle the smaller breeds. Like guinea pigs, rabbits are social animals and require companionship of another rabbit when kept as pets. Provision of a proper rabbit and predator-proof enclosure in the garden is essential for keeping these animals.



     Mice & Rats



    Mice and rats can make excellent little pets and are very popular with children but usually only live for about two years. They have been bred in captivity for nearly one hundred years and there are now forty different varieties available. Pet mice are easily handled by children and do not require large or expensive facilities.



     Purebred or Crossbred?



    The only advantage of a purebred variety is a recognisable size and appearance, particularly colour pattern. Purebred varieties are usually acquired deliberately and may be expensive to purchase.



     Short Coat or Long?



    Short-coated pets are the easiest to groom, particularly as many tend to look after their coats themselves. The long-coated varieties, especially the Angora rabbit, need a great deal of attention on a daily basis.



     Male or Female?



    Male animals should be kept singly because of the risk of fighting when several males are placed together even if they are desexed. Male animals should not be placed with female animals unless breeding is required, or the animals have been desexed. Occasionally two females may fight and where this occurs they must be kept separated.







    Purchasing your Pet



    Buy your pet from a reputable source. Beware of purchasing it from markets or places where large numbers of pets are kept for sale. Only buy if you are satisfied that the facilities in which the animals are kept for sale are in excellent condition. Never purchase a pet that looks or is unwell, or is for sale with other animals that look unwell



    Responsibilities of owning your Rabbit, Guinea Pig, Mouse & Rat



    Read all you can about the particular type of pet you have chosen. Talk to friends who have the same type of pet you wish to purchase. Cheek with your local veterinary surgeon about the specific medical problems the pet of your choice could contract. At the same time check how these diseases are recognised, and what prevention measures are required to avoid them.



    Guinea pigs, rabbits and mice require specialised shelter from the elements, protection from natural enemies such as cats, dogs and wild birds; a correct and balanced daily diet, and the opportunity to take adequate exercise. Owners must ensure that pets receive proper veterinary care when they are ill, and must watch their pets to detect signs of illness.



     The Law



    The animal protection laws in Victoria cover all animals and birds and proclaim the following offences pet owners should know about:



     abandoning an animal.

     failing to provide drink, food or shelter for an animal.

     ill-treating, injuring, tormenting or torturing an animal.

     killing an animal in a cruel manner or unlawfully or maliciously.



    If you suspect cruelty to an animal inform the RSPCA immediately.



    It is illegal to keep wild (bush) rabbits as pets, however pet rabbits may be kept without a permit provided they are housed according to the requirements set down by the Agriculture Department.



    If you suspect cruelty to an animal inform the RSPCA or Victorian Police immediately.

    Care For your Rabbit or Guinea pig



     Housing



    A good roomy hutch is absolutely basic to a guinea pig’s or a rabbit's welfare. The hutch is a cage divided into two connecting compartments, one for daytime with a wire mesh door to admit light and air, the other to provide a mosquito proof retreat at night or from wind, rain, or cold.



    The roof of the hutch should be hinged to allow ease of access for cleaning purposes and the hutch should be raised off the ground and sited to catch the morning sun. The floor of the hutch should be designed to contain a litter of wood shaving about 5cm deep covered with a thick layer of bedding straw. The day compartment should be fitted with a water bottle, hay-rack, gnawing block or bark covered log, and an earthenware feeding bowl. Suitable hutch size for two rabbits is 180cm x 90cm x 90cm and for two guinea pigs, 150cm x 60cm x 60cm. The bedding straw must be replaced on a daily basis, and each week the hutch should be thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed.



     Exercise Enclosure



    A strongly fenced enclosure should be built about the hutch to provide earth-contact exercise for your guinea pigs or rabbits. The enclosure fence must not only protect your pets from predators, but must prevent their escape by burrowing, or jumping. Inside the enclosure there should be some hollow logs and pipes, shrubbery, or rocky caves, to provide the animals with cover and protection.



     Grooming



    Daily grooming of guinea-pigs and rabbits is essential to keep the coat in good condition. Use a firm brush, which will remove dead hairs, tangles and pieces of twigs, dry leaves or burrs. During grooming, check the animal for general health and external parasites. Also check the length of toenails and, if found to be overlong, have them clipped by a veterinarian or someone experienced in clipping. Daily handling keeps the animals tame.



     Feeding



    As herbivores, guinea pigs and rabbits need a diet consisting almost entirely of vegetable matter. Variety is essential, and the food offered must be fresh. Special pellets are available from pet shops and form a good base for the diet, which must include greens. Fresh food can include apples, pears and a variety of vegetables. Fresh water supplied via a drip feed bottle rather than an easily contaminated bowl.



     Desexing



    Female rabbits should be desexed to prevent unwanted litters. Male rabbits and guinea pigs may be desexed not only to prevent reproduction but also to control fighting amongst males.

    Health and Veterinary Care



     Signs of Health:

     Demeanour: Alert, watchful and responsive to human approach.

     Movement: Guinea Pigs - rapid shuffling close to the ground.

     Rabbit: strong movements particularly in hind legs.

     Appetite: Good - eating frequently and drinking regularly.

     Breathing: Quiet and regular.

     Coat: No soiling by faeces or urine. No tangles, skin sores or parasites.

     Ears: Alert to sound - no discharge.

     Eyes: Clear and bright with no discharge.

     Nose: No discharge. Rabbits" noses twitch rhythmically.

     Feet: Clean and dry with no skin broken and nails not overlong.



    If your rabbit or guinea pig appears unwell for any reason, consult your veterinarian.



     Ailments



    Rabbits and guinea-pigs can become ill without warning, usually characterised by lethargy and a failure to eat or drink. Seek veterinary advice.



     Respiratory Infections



    The symptoms are similar to those of the common cold in humans but may develop into pneumonia. Often infection is caused by poor living conditions. At the first sign of snuffles or sneezing obtain veterinary advice.







     Myxomatosis

    This infection is used to control wild rabbit populations in Australia and is transmitted from rabbit to rabbit via biting insects such as the mosquito or flea. Symptoms are very sore eyes and nose, swollen ear flaps and genitalia, and failure to eat or drink. The disease is fatal and no vaccination is available. An affected rabbit should be humanely "put down" as soon as the disease is diagnosed by a veterinary surgeon. Domestic rabbits can be protected only by being housed in a mosquito-proof hutch and being kept free of fleas.



     Calicivirus



    The rabbit calicivirus disease is another virus designed to control the wild (bush) rabbit population. Rabbit owners can protect their pets by having them vaccinated by a veterinarian.



     Diarrhoea



    May be due to an intestinal infection introduced by contaminated vegetable matter, or to a sudden change in diet. Withhold greens for twenty-four hours, feeding only hay and water, but if the condition persists consult a veterinarian.



     Overgrown teeth



    This condition occurs where the animal has not been fed sufficient hard food, or a gnawing block of bark-covered wood has not been provided in the hutch.



     External Parasites



    During daily grooming check rabbits for any sign of fleas. If necessary, consult your veterinarian for advice on the best flea treatment products to use.



     Skin Ailments



    Many of these occur due to a failure to adequately clean the Hutch and remove soiled bedding straw. Urine scald and faecal contamination of the coat is easily recognised. Skin irritation with balding can also be caused by mites and ringworm. Skin abscesses in rabbits are common when fighting (usually between males) occurs. The abscesses can reach golf ball size before bursting. Veterinary assistance is required where skin irritation or abscesses occur.

    Care for you Mice and Rats



     Housing



    Mice and rats are usually kept in an escape-proof wire mesh fronted hardwood cage. A suitable floor size for two pets is 60cm x30cm with 25cm headroom. The cage lid should be hinged to allow access to the mice and for cleaning purposes. A small dark nesting box must be fitted as a gallery close to the lid of the cage, with access to this box via a ramp. Mice suffer great stress if such a retreat is not available. The floor of the cage should allow for good shaving litter 2.5cm deep with ample bedding straw cover. Ease of cleaning the entire cage and nesting box should be taken into account when building.



     Exercise



    Mice and rats are talented climbers. Ropes and ladders should be provided, also a strong exercise wheel. Ideal for exercise is a multi-storied mouse cage.



     Grooming



    Mice and rats generally groom themselves, providing their cage is kept clean. Daily handling is recommended to check on signs of ill-health and to keep the animals tame.



     Feeding



    Mice and rats are omnivorous. Special food pellets can be purchased from a pet shop. In addition, raw fruit and vegetables should be given daily, including carrot, celery, and apple. Fresh hay is an important component of diet. Food and water dishes must be cleaned daily. The animals readily adapt to a drip feed water bottle.



    Health and Veterinary Care



     Signs of Health:

     Demeanour: Alert, responsive.

     Movement: Rapid, close to ground.

     Appetite: Good, eating regularly.

     Breathing: Quiet and regular.

     Coat: Clean, glossy, and free of soiling.

     Ears: Alert to sound

     Eyes: Clear and bright with no discharge.

     Nose: Twitches frequently. No discharge.

     Feet: Clean and dry with no skin broken and nails

    not overlong.

    If your mouse or rat appears unwell for any reason, consult your veterinarian.



     Ailments



    Small rodents have very poor recuperative powers. The accent must therefore be on the prevention of illness by very high standards of care. Seek veterinary advice at the first sign of illness.









    Caring for Wildlife



    Native animals are animals that have been in Australia for thousands of years such as kangaroos, possums, wombats, koalas (marsupials), bats, platypus, echidnas, native rodents, dingoes, seals, whales, dolphins, native birds, reptiles, frogs and native fish. The laws concerned with owning native and introduced animals

    are usually quite different and also vary from state to state. Most native animals are protected and cannot be

    kept as individuals. There are certain native animals that may be kept as pets.

    The most popular of these are native birds - some parrots, ****atoos, finches, quail, doves, pigeons and ducks. Less common native animal pets are reptiles, some tortoises, lizards, crocodiles and snakes, some frogs, and some types of fish. Special permits are necessary to keep most Australian wildlife (e.g. kangaroos, possums, wombats, koalas, kookaburras, magpies, hawks, many reptiles, frogs and fish). Usually only Zoos and Fauna Parks are given permits to hold these animals.



    In some cases people make a deliberate decision to keep native birds or animals as pets, while quite often people do so by accident when they find injured or orphaned animals that need care. Other people are interested in attracting native animals to their garden. It must be understood that there is no diminished responsibility in keeping native animals as they require equally high standards of food, hygiene, shelter and conditions, as do any domestic pet. In some cases they require considerably more careful attention and more elaborate facilities.



    The RSPCA is actively opposed to the sale and keeping of native animals (other than captive bred birds) as pets. Due to widespread ignorance of the husbandry requirements of animals they often suffer from neglect which leads to death from starvation or disease. The RSPCA believes that native birds bred in captivity should always be kept in an aviary with the one exception being the budgerigar, provided that it is housed in a cage of approved size (30cm x 30cm x 38cm in dimension, minimum for one bird). ****atoos must not be confined by a chain to the leg.

    Native Birds



     Laws

    Check with the Victorian Natural Resources and Environment Department for laws about birds which can be kept as pets and regulations about cage sizes and licence fees. Only birds bred in captivity may be kept in cages. It is illegal to catch and cage wild birds.

    For additional advice contact the Avicultural Society of Australia.

     Food

    Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. Most parrots, ****atoos, finches, quail, doves and pigeons are mainly seed eaters. They should be fed a variety of seeds but not much sunflower seed as it is very high in fats. Fresh greens should be offered daily e.g. silverbeet, seeding grasses, milk thistles, and chickweed. Shell grit and cuttlefish should always be available to provide calcium and grit to help grind seeds in the gizzard. Other items that may be included in the diet are fruit and vegetables (orange, apple, carrot etc), insects (mealworms, grubs), sprouting seed (wheat sprouts), berries (cotoneaster, hawthorn), seeds and nuts (pine cones, gum nuts, peanuts, almonds), and lorikeet nectar mix. Note: all greens, fruit and vegetables should be washed to remove any poisonous spray and offered fresh daily.

     Housing



    Birds need suitable shelter from wind and rain, and from very hot conditions. There should be ample room for your bird to fly for exercise. At least two native branches should be used as perches. Suitable nesting sites should be provided (nesting boxes, logs or branches, and grasses for nest building). A concrete floor is acceptable and easy to clean. The aviary should be rodent-proof and give protection from cats, hawks, owls and possums.



     Selection



    It is very important that only compatible birds are kept together, otherwise serious injuries can occur from fighting. Aviaries should not be overstocked.



     Health Problems



    Intestinal roundworms, a variety of infections and leg and beak mites are common amongst birds. Health problems can be reduced if the birds are fed and housed correctly and if the aviary is kept clean. Food and water dishes should not be placed below perches, thus reducing contamination from droppings.



    For advice and treatment of sick birds contact a veterinarian who is particularly interested in birds or the local Avicultural Society.

    Please be careful! If you find a baby bird please leave it alone!



    During the spring and summer the RSPCA hears from concerned people who have found what they believe to be an abandoned young bird. In almost every case the bird has not been abandoned and rescuing it will do more harm than good.



    If you find a young bird out of the nest - here are some tips to help you decide what to do:

     Fledglings (young birds that have grown all of most of their feathers) may leave

    the nest before they can fly. Don't try to return a fledgling to its nest as you may

    disturb other young birds.



     If you find the bird on a road, or somewhere very exposed or dangerous and it is

    uninjured, put it somewhere near by where there is some cover and where the

    parents will find it and they will continue feeding it.



     If you are worried about the young bird, go right away for two hours. When your return you will almost

    certainly find the natural parents have taken care of the youngster.



     If you find an unfeathered bird has fallen out of the nest (probably by accident), you could try to find the

    nest and put it back very carefully.



     If there is no alternative and you feel that as a last resort the bird should be cared for, contact the RSPCA.

    No matter how hard you try you will not be able to give the bird the attention it would receive from its

    parents and it may be difficult for it to learn to fend for itself in the wild.

    Attracting Native animals to the garden



    By growing certain varieties of flowering native shrubs and trees it is possible to attract a wonderful variety of birds, butterflies and other animals to the garden.



    It is not advisable to hand feed these animals, as they may become dependent and unable to locate food for themselves. Indeed, the food supplied to birds or possums may well be deficient in minerals and cause, for example, weak bone development.

    Injured Wildlife



    Injured animals are usually suffering pain and fear and should be handled as little as possible and kept in a warm, quiet place. A towel over the animal often makes it calmer and safer to handle. A cardboard box, hessian sack, pillow case or wooden box are good to hold animals in for a short time. Be careful the animal does not get too hot or too cold. Injured wildlife should be handled only as much as is necessary to get them to professional help.



    If you need to hold an injured animal for any length of time check with CALM or the RSPCA. They may have suggestions about the short term food and housing required by the animal, or may take over its care. Most native animals are protected and cannot be kept as pets after recovery from injury or sickness. The animal must be released or transferred to someone with a permit to keep protected wildlife. In almost all cases it is best for the animal whether injured or orphaned to be passed on to a knowledgeable wildlife carer who can properly care for and eventually release it back into its own environment.

    Orphaned Wildlife



    The most commonly found orphaned animals are possums, kangaroo joeys and nestling birds. All young animals must be kept warm (25'C - 30'C temperatures), require frequent feeds (at least 6 times a day for possums and kangaroos, more often for nestling birds) and often require special diets and care.



    It is very important to get correct advice about the care of these animals from the Department of Conservation & Land Management or one of their network of registered wildlife carers. Some of them are protected and therefore cannot be reared by individuals, although some experienced people have permits for a shelter.



    The information below is a guide to the types of diets that can be fed for a few days until more detailed information can be obtained.







     Furred Possums and Kangaroos



    Constant warmth is very important. Powered milk, Divetelac, Digestelact, or evaporated milk can be used. The milk should be fed diluted initially, i.e., 114ml milk - 314ml water, for a few feeds, gradually increasing the concentration over 2- 3 days.



    Solid foods - fruit and vegetables (i.e., apple, orange, pear, carrot); kangaroos can also be given grass hay and cattle pellets; Possums can be given eucalypt and prunus leaves and rose petals. If you have the animal for more than 2-3 days you must check for a more complete diet.



     Unfurred or Finely Furred Possums and Kangaroos



    These animals are very undeveloped and need the very best of care if they are to survive. Provision of constant warmth is essential as they cannot produce their own body heat.



    They should be fed water and Glucodin (1 teaspoon Glucodin per 200 mls water), or Lectade for the first few feeds. Possums may then be fed one of the milk formulas mentioned previously.







    Note: Kangaroos must not be fed any of the milk formula. The Wombaroo company make specific milk substitute formulae for all native species and these may be obtained from a veterinarian and used very successfully. These young animals need their bottoms wiped gently after each feed to stimulate bladder and bowel action. If you have the animal for more than 2-3 days you must cheek for a more complete diet.









    
    Kookaburras and Magpies



    In the wild these birds eat insects and small animals (vertebrates). It is important that calcium carbonate is added to meat to prevent bone problems (2 heaped teaspoonsful calcium carbonate per kg. meat mince). Soaked complete dry dog food, hard boiled egg and cheese can be added. Earthworms, grubs and other insects can also be fed.

    Reptiles and Frogs as pets



    Tortoises, lizards, snakes, crocodiles and frogs require special care. Venomous snakes should only be kept by people who are experts at handling them. Most reptiles are shy animals and handling should be minimal. Tortoises should not be tied up on a leash.



     Laws



    Check with the Flora and Fauna division of CALM for laws under which reptiles and frogs can be kept as pets, regulations about enclosures and licence fees.



    For advice contact the Australian Herpetological Society. Recommended reading: "Keeping Reptiles and Amphibians as Pets" by Chris Banks, Published by Nelson.



     Food



    Snakes are usually accustomed to eating fresh dead mice, rats and chickens. Lizards can be fed a salad mix (clover leaves, dandelions etc.), a fruit salad mix (finely chopped orange, banana, blackberries, carrots etc.), insects (mealworms, crickets), and/or a meat mix (lean minced beef, two heaped teaspoonsful calcium carbonate per kg of meat, or a complete dry dog food). Tortoises are usually fed a meat-based diet, but calcium must be added otherwise deformities will occur with the shell and bones (a mix of lean minced beef, two heaped teaspoonsful calcium carbonate per kg of meat and complete dry dog food).



     Housing



    The correct housing is essential for reptiles, otherwise health problems will occur. Reptiles should not be kept in wire cages as injuries can result - use wood, glass or plastic. Correct temperatures are very important. A safe heat source such as a light globe should be provided in one part of the cage to allow the animal to select a position that will provide the heat it requires. Warning the globe should be out of the animals" reach otherwise it might burn itself. Some reptiles need to bask under a heat lamp.



    Humidity, ventilation and lighting should be checked and be effective. A light source providing a variety of intensifies or wavelengths may be best.



    Shelter should provide absolute security, clean water for drinking and soaking in and a rock to help with shedding the old skin.



    Space should be available for some exercise. The floor of the enclosure can be sand, smooth gravel, leaf litter or absorbent paper.



     Health Problems



    Most health problems are due to incorrect temperatures, humidity, housing and feeding.



    Problems can occur due to intestinal worms, skin mites and a variety of infections and injuries.



    For advice and treatment of sick reptiles and frogs, contact a veterinarian particularly interested in these animals. The local Herpetology Society, the Melbourne Zoo, RSPCA, or the Department of Conservation & Land Management can also provide advice.

  2. #2
    Im A Super Member

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    Default Re: ANIMAL CARE, Bird Care, Cat Care, Dog Care, Fish Care, Horse Care, Rabbits & wild

    whoa :shock:

    i been having a cat since i was little so i know how to take care of my cat.

    eventho two fo them was mean, but the one i have now WONT LEAVE ME THE F**K ALONE :censored: she isnt even a year old yet and the second i open my door here she comes runningthinking she can get into my room. dont want her in there in case she has the runs again :

  3. #3
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    Default Re: ANIMAL CARE, Bird Care, Cat Care, Dog Care, Fish Care, Horse Care, Rabbits & wild

    can some one sticky this thread plz its just some helpful info.

  4. #4
    EvilWolf
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    Default Re: ANIMAL CARE, Bird Care, Cat Care, Dog Care, Fish Care, Horse Care, Rabbits & wild

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